At the beginning of the 20th century, fashion experienced one of the greatest upheavals in its history. Within a few years, the image of women changed fundamentally – from tightly corseted silhouettes to flowing, natural elegance.
But this change didn't happen suddenly. It was the result of criticism, experimentation, and bold design choices.
The corset – symbol of an entire era
For decades, the corset was the central element of women's fashion. It shaped the body according to idealized notions and created the typical hourglass silhouette of the 19th century.
But this form came at a price:
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severe physical restriction
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health problems
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hardly any freedom of movement
Towards the end of the 19th century, criticism grew louder. Doctors and so-called "reform movements" called for more natural clothing.
Reform Dress – a first, but uncomfortable attempt
As a counter-movement, so-called reform dress emerged:
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loose-fitting
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without a corset
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functional and healthy
However, despite its advantages, it hardly caught on.
Why?
Because it was considered unfashionable and shapeless.
It contradicted the beauty ideal of the time – and therefore remained prevalent mainly in artistic circles.
The "Sans-Ventre" Corset – the transitional form
Interestingly, the corset didn't disappear immediately.
Around 1900–1906, a new form developed: the so-called "Sans-Ventre" corset.
Its goal:
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to flatten the stomach
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to smooth the hips
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to create a slender, upright line
This silhouette shaped the fashion of the early 1900s and marks an important transitional phase between old and new design language.
The turning point: 1906
Around 1906, a decisive change occurred.
Parisian haute couture began to break away from the corset.
At the center of this development was one designer:
Paul Poiret – the man who liberated fashion
Paul Poiret is considered one of the most important pioneers of modern fashion.
He was one of the first designers who:
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consistently dispensed with the corset
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designed flowing, natural silhouettes
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understood fashion as an art form
His designs no longer focused on rigid body shapes, but on movement, fabric, and expression.
In doing so, he not only changed fashion – but also the image of women.
Influence of the Orient – new inspirations
Another decisive factor was the influence of the Orient.
Inspired by:
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theater and art (e.g. Ballets Russes)
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oriental fabrics and patterns
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flowing garments
completely new designs emerged:
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tunics
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Empire dresses
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richly decorated fabrics
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soft draperies
Fashion suddenly became:
more colorful, freer, and more artistic
The new silhouette – fashion around 1910
Around 1910, the appearance had changed significantly.
Typical were:
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flowing fabrics
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softly draped skirts
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high or loosened waistlines
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less structure, more movement
Clothing draped around the body – instead of shaping it.
More than fashion: A social change
Dispensing with the corset was more than just a stylistic decision.
It symbolically stood for:
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more freedom
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more self-determination
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a new image of women
Fashion became an expression of social change.
Conclusion: The beginning of modern fashion
The years between 1900 and 1914 mark the transition from traditional to modern clothing.
What began with criticism of the corset led to a completely new design language:
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more natural
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freer
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more movable
Many elements from this period can still be found in fashion today.
This article is part of the series "The Story Behind the Dress" – a visual journey through the evolution of historical fashion.
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