Part 4 of the series: Baroque Fashion
While women's Baroque fashion was primarily characterized by its voluminous skirts and artfully designed bodices, men's clothing also underwent fundamental changes during the 17th and early 18th centuries. Between the early Baroque and the transition to Rococo, cuts, silhouettes, and garments changed multiple times.
The French court under Louis XIV, in particular, profoundly influenced European men's fashion. However, this development did not proceed uniformly everywhere. Regional differences and time lags meant that older forms of clothing were still worn for a long time in some countries.
The Ideal of Beauty
The Baroque ideal of beauty for men differed significantly from today's notions. The aim was an upright posture with broad shoulders, a narrow-looking waist, and long legs. Elegance was shown less through muscular strength than through posture, high-quality clothing, and a well-groomed appearance.
At court, a harmonious overall appearance was considered an expression of education, prosperity, and social status.
Clothing also consisted of several layers
Men's wardrobes also consisted of several layers.
A complete courtly garment could consist of:
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Linen shirt
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Neckcloth or jabot
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Waistcoat
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Justaucorps
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Breeches
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Stockings
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Shoes with heels and buckles
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Coat or cloak, depending on the occasion
Which garments were worn depended on the era, region, and social standing.
From Doublet to Justaucorps
In the early 17th century, the doublet still dominated – a close-fitting, tailored upper garment whose origins can be traced back to the Renaissance. It was worn over a linen shirt and, together with breeches, formed the core of men's clothing at the time.
During the 17th century, the doublet gradually lengthened and slowly lost its original form. At the same time, a new type of layered clothing emerged. From the once dominant doublet, two independent garments developed: the waistcoat as a close-fitting undergarment and the justaucorps as a long, stately overcoat.
From about the 1660s onwards, the justaucorps became increasingly popular at European princely courts. It was characterized by its tailored cut, long skirts, wide sleeve cuffs, and a series of decorative buttons. It was always worn over a long, often richly embroidered waistcoat.
This combination of waistcoat, justaucorps, and breeches became the characteristic appearance of courtly men's fashion of the High Baroque and remained – with fashionable changes – well into the 18th century.
A silhouette that shaped European men's fashion well into the 18th century.
Breeches and Stockings
Breeches were an integral part of Baroque men's clothing. They reached just below the knee and were fastened there with ribbons, buttons, or buckles.
Long silk or wool stockings were worn with them. Especially at court, finely knitted silk stockings were among the visible signs of wealth.
Fabrics and Colors
High-quality materials were preferred for courtly clothing.
These included, among others:
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Silk
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Velvet
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Brocade
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Damask
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Fine wool fabrics
Especially festive garments were embroidered with gold or silver threads. Lace on cuffs and necklines also belonged to courtly fashion.
The color palette was diverse. Deep red, blue, green, and purple were considered particularly representative. In the early 18th century, lighter shades also became increasingly popular.
Wigs and Hairstyles
One of the most striking features of men's fashion was the large wigs.
Wigs came into fashion as early as the 17th century, but they reached their peak under Louis XIV. The so-called periwigs consisted of long, curled hair sections and gave their wearer a particularly impressive appearance.
However, not every man wore such an elaborate wig. The size and design depended on wealth, social status, and occasion.
Shoes and Accessories
Baroque men's shoes were usually made of leather and had a heel. Characteristic were large metal buckles or decorative bows.
The courtly appearance also included:
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Gloves
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Walking stick or sword cane
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Hat, often with feather trim
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Sword as a status symbol
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Lace cuffs
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Orders or insignia of honor for official occasions
Many of these accessories had not only a practical but also a representative function.
Clothing as an Expression of Social Status
As with women's fashion, men's clothing also reflected social status. High-quality fabrics, elaborate embroidery, and precious accessories made wealth immediately visible.
At the Court of Versailles, clothing and appearance were subject to strict rules. The nobility invested considerable sums in their wardrobes to meet courtly expectations and underscore their social standing.
Baroque men's fashion evolved from the still Renaissance-influenced forms of the early 17th century to the elegant and representative garments of the High Baroque. Justaucorps, waistcoat, breeches, wigs, and richly decorated fabrics became characteristic features of the era.
In the next part of our series, we will dedicate ourselves to the fabrics, colors, and embellishments of Baroque fashion. We will show which materials were particularly sought after, how luxurious textiles were produced, and the significance of colors and embroidery in courtly Europe.
Historical Garment Studies & Creative Templates
Every historical dress tells its own story. Would you like to get creative yourself? Discover our historical garment studies, fashion illustrations, and coloring pages for adults – for designing, coloring, and as inspiration for your own historical designs.
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